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  • In recent years, the relationship between fashion, media, and consumption has undergone profound changes. A central driving force behind this transformation is the culture of social media influencers, who have evolved into powerful players within the fashion ecosystem. Platforms like Instagram, TikTok, and YouTube serve not only as showcases for clothing but also as spaces for performance, meaning-making, and trend generation. The former dominance of traditional fashion media has increasingly been supplanted by influencers who, through their reach, style influence, and relatability, have established a new form of digital authority. Particularly among younger audiences, influencers are perceived as credible figures, whose recommendations are considered more authentic than traditional advertising.

    Their influence is largely based on the specific logic of social media, where personal closeness, visual aesthetics, and constant availability are central success factors. While Instagram captivates with curated visual worlds ideal for brand staging, TikTok is gaining importance as a platform for creative, fast-paced fashion trends. According to the “Influencer Marketing Report” by Collabstr (2025), TikTok has become the preferred platform for fashion collaborations – a shift that is also reflected economically: the global market for fashion influencer marketing is projected to exceed $46 billion by 2031, with an annual growth rate of over 30%.

    Influencers act not only as trendsetters but also actively influence purchasing decisions. Studies show that they are central information sources for fashion-related questions, especially among those under 35. Through outfit inspirations, discount codes, or unboxing videos, they enhance brand visibility and drive purchasing decisions. Simultaneously, their activities accelerate the cyclical nature of fashion trends: styles emerge, spread globally in a short time, and disappear just as quickly. This hyper-cyclicality increases the innovation pressure on established fashion houses but also offers new labels and niche products opportunities for visibility.

    However, this development is not without controversy. Critics point out that the constant presentation of new products by influencers not only fuels consumption but also contributes to the spread of fast fashion. A legal analysis by the University of Maine (2024) indicates that social media, through its visual dominance, algorithmic amplification, and advertising collaborations, significantly contributes to the normalization of a fast-paced, resource-intensive fashion consumption. The seemingly authentic lifestyle portrayed by many influencers is often closely tied to product placements and commercial partnerships—without this always being clear to the audience. This lack of transparency poses not only ethical challenges but also threatens long-term trust in digital opinion leaders.

    At the same time, this trend stands in contrast to a growing societal awareness of sustainable and fair fashion. While some influencers deliberately focus on slow fashion or upcycling, fast fashion collaborations with large textile chains still dominate broadly. The challenge lies in countering the creative and communicative possibilities that influencers offer with responsible, reflective actions. The influence of these actors is undoubtedly ambivalent: on the one hand, they enable a democratization of style and fashion knowledge; on the other hand, they contribute to the reproduction of consumption norms that are difficult to reconcile with ecological sustainability. It is all the more important to critically reflect on these dynamics and to develop regulatory and educational strategies that promote transparency, diversity, and sustainability in the digital fashion context.

    Timeline of Genderfluid-Trends in Popmusic

    1972: David Bowie – Ziggy Stardust, androgynous glam rock
    1984: Prince – Purple Rain tour, ruffled blouses and high heels
    1994: Kurt Cobain – appearance in a dress on MTV
    2011: Janelle Monáe – androgynous uniform aesthetic
    2019: Billy Porter – tuxedo gown at the Oscars
    2020: Harry Styles – dress on the cover of Vogue
    2021: Lil Nas X – pregnancy photoshoot
    2023: Sam Smith – latex outfit at the BRIT Awards

    References

    Butler, J. (1990). Gender trouble: Feminism and the subversion of identity. Routledge.

    Dyer, R. (1993). The matter of images: Essays on representation. Routledge.

    Edited. (2022). The rise of gender-neutral fashion. https://www.edited.com/resources/reports/the-rise-of-gender-neutral-fashion/

    Entwistle, J. (2000). The fashioned body: Fashion, dress and modern social theory. Polity Press.

    Geczy, A., & Karaminas, V. (2013). Fashion and art. Bloomsbury.

    Gill, R. (2007). Gender and the media. Polity Press.

    Kaiser, S. B. (2012). Fashion and cultural studies. Berg.

    McKinsey & Company. (2023). The state of fashion 2023. https://www.mckinsey.com/industries/retail/our-insights/state-of-fashion

    Pew Research Center. (2022). Generation Z and gender identity. https://www.pewresearch.org/social-trends/2022/08/05/americans-complex-views-on-gender-identity/


    Fashion Shopping Tomorrow: Online, Offline Or In Between?

    By Katharina von Plettenberg The fashion industry is undergoing a significant digital transformation, with boundaries between online and physical retail becoming increasingly blurred. Technology is changing the way people discover, try on and purchase clothing. This change has been accelerated by the COVID-19 pandemic, which has led to…

  • In recent years, the relationship between fashion, media, and consumption has undergone profound changes. A central driving force behind this transformation is the culture of social media influencers, who have evolved into powerful players within the fashion ecosystem. Platforms like Instagram, TikTok, and YouTube serve not only as showcases for clothing but also as spaces for performance, meaning-making, and trend generation. The former dominance of traditional fashion media has increasingly been supplanted by influencers who, through their reach, style influence, and relatability, have established a new form of digital authority. Particularly among younger audiences, influencers are perceived as credible figures, whose recommendations are considered more authentic than traditional advertising.

    Their influence is largely based on the specific logic of social media, where personal closeness, visual aesthetics, and constant availability are central success factors. While Instagram captivates with curated visual worlds ideal for brand staging, TikTok is gaining importance as a platform for creative, fast-paced fashion trends. According to the “Influencer Marketing Report” by Collabstr (2025), TikTok has become the preferred platform for fashion collaborations – a shift that is also reflected economically: the global market for fashion influencer marketing is projected to exceed $46 billion by 2031, with an annual growth rate of over 30%.

    Influencers act not only as trendsetters but also actively influence purchasing decisions. Studies show that they are central information sources for fashion-related questions, especially among those under 35. Through outfit inspirations, discount codes, or unboxing videos, they enhance brand visibility and drive purchasing decisions. Simultaneously, their activities accelerate the cyclical nature of fashion trends: styles emerge, spread globally in a short time, and disappear just as quickly. This hyper-cyclicality increases the innovation pressure on established fashion houses but also offers new labels and niche products opportunities for visibility.

    However, this development is not without controversy. Critics point out that the constant presentation of new products by influencers not only fuels consumption but also contributes to the spread of fast fashion. A legal analysis by the University of Maine (2024) indicates that social media, through its visual dominance, algorithmic amplification, and advertising collaborations, significantly contributes to the normalization of a fast-paced, resource-intensive fashion consumption. The seemingly authentic lifestyle portrayed by many influencers is often closely tied to product placements and commercial partnerships—without this always being clear to the audience. This lack of transparency poses not only ethical challenges but also threatens long-term trust in digital opinion leaders.

    At the same time, this trend stands in contrast to a growing societal awareness of sustainable and fair fashion. While some influencers deliberately focus on slow fashion or upcycling, fast fashion collaborations with large textile chains still dominate broadly. The challenge lies in countering the creative and communicative possibilities that influencers offer with responsible, reflective actions. The influence of these actors is undoubtedly ambivalent: on the one hand, they enable a democratization of style and fashion knowledge; on the other hand, they contribute to the reproduction of consumption norms that are difficult to reconcile with ecological sustainability. It is all the more important to critically reflect on these dynamics and to develop regulatory and educational strategies that promote transparency, diversity, and sustainability in the digital fashion context.

    Timeline of Genderfluid-Trends in Popmusic

    1972: David Bowie – Ziggy Stardust, androgynous glam rock
    1984: Prince – Purple Rain tour, ruffled blouses and high heels
    1994: Kurt Cobain – appearance in a dress on MTV
    2011: Janelle Monáe – androgynous uniform aesthetic
    2019: Billy Porter – tuxedo gown at the Oscars
    2020: Harry Styles – dress on the cover of Vogue
    2021: Lil Nas X – pregnancy photoshoot
    2023: Sam Smith – latex outfit at the BRIT Awards

    References

    Butler, J. (1990). Gender trouble: Feminism and the subversion of identity. Routledge.

    Dyer, R. (1993). The matter of images: Essays on representation. Routledge.

    Edited. (2022). The rise of gender-neutral fashion. https://www.edited.com/resources/reports/the-rise-of-gender-neutral-fashion/

    Entwistle, J. (2000). The fashioned body: Fashion, dress and modern social theory. Polity Press.

    Geczy, A., & Karaminas, V. (2013). Fashion and art. Bloomsbury.

    Gill, R. (2007). Gender and the media. Polity Press.

    Kaiser, S. B. (2012). Fashion and cultural studies. Berg.

    McKinsey & Company. (2023). The state of fashion 2023. https://www.mckinsey.com/industries/retail/our-insights/state-of-fashion

    Pew Research Center. (2022). Generation Z and gender identity. https://www.pewresearch.org/social-trends/2022/08/05/americans-complex-views-on-gender-identity/


    The Green Illusion: How Fashion Brands Mislead Consumers with Eco Claims and Empty Promises

    By Katharina von Plettenberg An increasing number of fashion brands are presenting themselves as sustainable, but often it’s just for show. To appear more responsible, companies like H&M highlight their “Close the Loop” initiative, while Shein promotes its supposedly eco-friendly line “evoluShein”. Greenwashing involves making environmentally friendly claims…

  • In recent years, the relationship between fashion, media, and consumption has undergone profound changes. A central driving force behind this transformation is the culture of social media influencers, who have evolved into powerful players within the fashion ecosystem. Platforms like Instagram, TikTok, and YouTube serve not only as showcases for clothing but also as spaces for performance, meaning-making, and trend generation. The former dominance of traditional fashion media has increasingly been supplanted by influencers who, through their reach, style influence, and relatability, have established a new form of digital authority. Particularly among younger audiences, influencers are perceived as credible figures, whose recommendations are considered more authentic than traditional advertising.

    Their influence is largely based on the specific logic of social media, where personal closeness, visual aesthetics, and constant availability are central success factors. While Instagram captivates with curated visual worlds ideal for brand staging, TikTok is gaining importance as a platform for creative, fast-paced fashion trends. According to the “Influencer Marketing Report” by Collabstr (2025), TikTok has become the preferred platform for fashion collaborations – a shift that is also reflected economically: the global market for fashion influencer marketing is projected to exceed $46 billion by 2031, with an annual growth rate of over 30%.

    Influencers act not only as trendsetters but also actively influence purchasing decisions. Studies show that they are central information sources for fashion-related questions, especially among those under 35. Through outfit inspirations, discount codes, or unboxing videos, they enhance brand visibility and drive purchasing decisions. Simultaneously, their activities accelerate the cyclical nature of fashion trends: styles emerge, spread globally in a short time, and disappear just as quickly. This hyper-cyclicality increases the innovation pressure on established fashion houses but also offers new labels and niche products opportunities for visibility.

    However, this development is not without controversy. Critics point out that the constant presentation of new products by influencers not only fuels consumption but also contributes to the spread of fast fashion. A legal analysis by the University of Maine (2024) indicates that social media, through its visual dominance, algorithmic amplification, and advertising collaborations, significantly contributes to the normalization of a fast-paced, resource-intensive fashion consumption. The seemingly authentic lifestyle portrayed by many influencers is often closely tied to product placements and commercial partnerships—without this always being clear to the audience. This lack of transparency poses not only ethical challenges but also threatens long-term trust in digital opinion leaders.

    At the same time, this trend stands in contrast to a growing societal awareness of sustainable and fair fashion. While some influencers deliberately focus on slow fashion or upcycling, fast fashion collaborations with large textile chains still dominate broadly. The challenge lies in countering the creative and communicative possibilities that influencers offer with responsible, reflective actions. The influence of these actors is undoubtedly ambivalent: on the one hand, they enable a democratization of style and fashion knowledge; on the other hand, they contribute to the reproduction of consumption norms that are difficult to reconcile with ecological sustainability. It is all the more important to critically reflect on these dynamics and to develop regulatory and educational strategies that promote transparency, diversity, and sustainability in the digital fashion context.

    Timeline of Genderfluid-Trends in Popmusic

    1972: David Bowie – Ziggy Stardust, androgynous glam rock
    1984: Prince – Purple Rain tour, ruffled blouses and high heels
    1994: Kurt Cobain – appearance in a dress on MTV
    2011: Janelle Monáe – androgynous uniform aesthetic
    2019: Billy Porter – tuxedo gown at the Oscars
    2020: Harry Styles – dress on the cover of Vogue
    2021: Lil Nas X – pregnancy photoshoot
    2023: Sam Smith – latex outfit at the BRIT Awards

    References

    Butler, J. (1990). Gender trouble: Feminism and the subversion of identity. Routledge.

    Dyer, R. (1993). The matter of images: Essays on representation. Routledge.

    Edited. (2022). The rise of gender-neutral fashion. https://www.edited.com/resources/reports/the-rise-of-gender-neutral-fashion/

    Entwistle, J. (2000). The fashioned body: Fashion, dress and modern social theory. Polity Press.

    Geczy, A., & Karaminas, V. (2013). Fashion and art. Bloomsbury.

    Gill, R. (2007). Gender and the media. Polity Press.

    Kaiser, S. B. (2012). Fashion and cultural studies. Berg.

    McKinsey & Company. (2023). The state of fashion 2023. https://www.mckinsey.com/industries/retail/our-insights/state-of-fashion

    Pew Research Center. (2022). Generation Z and gender identity. https://www.pewresearch.org/social-trends/2022/08/05/americans-complex-views-on-gender-identity/


    Worn by You, Paid by Them: Between Awareness and Ignorance

    By Katharina von Plettenberg The fashion industry faces a striking paradox. Consumers today are more aware than ever that their clothes are often made under poor and exploitative working conditions. However, many people still buy cheap fashion items as if nothing were wrong. In the last 15 years,…

  • In recent years, the relationship between fashion, media, and consumption has undergone profound changes. A central driving force behind this transformation is the culture of social media influencers, who have evolved into powerful players within the fashion ecosystem. Platforms like Instagram, TikTok, and YouTube serve not only as showcases for clothing but also as spaces for performance, meaning-making, and trend generation. The former dominance of traditional fashion media has increasingly been supplanted by influencers who, through their reach, style influence, and relatability, have established a new form of digital authority. Particularly among younger audiences, influencers are perceived as credible figures, whose recommendations are considered more authentic than traditional advertising.

    Their influence is largely based on the specific logic of social media, where personal closeness, visual aesthetics, and constant availability are central success factors. While Instagram captivates with curated visual worlds ideal for brand staging, TikTok is gaining importance as a platform for creative, fast-paced fashion trends. According to the “Influencer Marketing Report” by Collabstr (2025), TikTok has become the preferred platform for fashion collaborations – a shift that is also reflected economically: the global market for fashion influencer marketing is projected to exceed $46 billion by 2031, with an annual growth rate of over 30%.

    Influencers act not only as trendsetters but also actively influence purchasing decisions. Studies show that they are central information sources for fashion-related questions, especially among those under 35. Through outfit inspirations, discount codes, or unboxing videos, they enhance brand visibility and drive purchasing decisions. Simultaneously, their activities accelerate the cyclical nature of fashion trends: styles emerge, spread globally in a short time, and disappear just as quickly. This hyper-cyclicality increases the innovation pressure on established fashion houses but also offers new labels and niche products opportunities for visibility.

    However, this development is not without controversy. Critics point out that the constant presentation of new products by influencers not only fuels consumption but also contributes to the spread of fast fashion. A legal analysis by the University of Maine (2024) indicates that social media, through its visual dominance, algorithmic amplification, and advertising collaborations, significantly contributes to the normalization of a fast-paced, resource-intensive fashion consumption. The seemingly authentic lifestyle portrayed by many influencers is often closely tied to product placements and commercial partnerships—without this always being clear to the audience. This lack of transparency poses not only ethical challenges but also threatens long-term trust in digital opinion leaders.

    At the same time, this trend stands in contrast to a growing societal awareness of sustainable and fair fashion. While some influencers deliberately focus on slow fashion or upcycling, fast fashion collaborations with large textile chains still dominate broadly. The challenge lies in countering the creative and communicative possibilities that influencers offer with responsible, reflective actions. The influence of these actors is undoubtedly ambivalent: on the one hand, they enable a democratization of style and fashion knowledge; on the other hand, they contribute to the reproduction of consumption norms that are difficult to reconcile with ecological sustainability. It is all the more important to critically reflect on these dynamics and to develop regulatory and educational strategies that promote transparency, diversity, and sustainability in the digital fashion context.

    Timeline of Genderfluid-Trends in Popmusic

    1972: David Bowie – Ziggy Stardust, androgynous glam rock
    1984: Prince – Purple Rain tour, ruffled blouses and high heels
    1994: Kurt Cobain – appearance in a dress on MTV
    2011: Janelle Monáe – androgynous uniform aesthetic
    2019: Billy Porter – tuxedo gown at the Oscars
    2020: Harry Styles – dress on the cover of Vogue
    2021: Lil Nas X – pregnancy photoshoot
    2023: Sam Smith – latex outfit at the BRIT Awards

    References

    Butler, J. (1990). Gender trouble: Feminism and the subversion of identity. Routledge.

    Dyer, R. (1993). The matter of images: Essays on representation. Routledge.

    Edited. (2022). The rise of gender-neutral fashion. https://www.edited.com/resources/reports/the-rise-of-gender-neutral-fashion/

    Entwistle, J. (2000). The fashioned body: Fashion, dress and modern social theory. Polity Press.

    Geczy, A., & Karaminas, V. (2013). Fashion and art. Bloomsbury.

    Gill, R. (2007). Gender and the media. Polity Press.

    Kaiser, S. B. (2012). Fashion and cultural studies. Berg.

    McKinsey & Company. (2023). The state of fashion 2023. https://www.mckinsey.com/industries/retail/our-insights/state-of-fashion

    Pew Research Center. (2022). Generation Z and gender identity. https://www.pewresearch.org/social-trends/2022/08/05/americans-complex-views-on-gender-identity/


    From Feed to Fashion: How TikTok and Instagram Are Redefining Fashion Trends

    By Victor Schäfer Fashion trends used to be decided by designers, magazines, and fashion weeks. Today, this has changed. Platforms like TikTok and Instagram allow everyday users to influence what people wear, sometimes more than luxury brands. An algorithm can now decide what becomes popular. A teenager’s outfit…

  • In recent years, the relationship between fashion, media, and consumption has undergone profound changes. A central driving force behind this transformation is the culture of social media influencers, who have evolved into powerful players within the fashion ecosystem. Platforms like Instagram, TikTok, and YouTube serve not only as showcases for clothing but also as spaces for performance, meaning-making, and trend generation. The former dominance of traditional fashion media has increasingly been supplanted by influencers who, through their reach, style influence, and relatability, have established a new form of digital authority. Particularly among younger audiences, influencers are perceived as credible figures, whose recommendations are considered more authentic than traditional advertising.

    Their influence is largely based on the specific logic of social media, where personal closeness, visual aesthetics, and constant availability are central success factors. While Instagram captivates with curated visual worlds ideal for brand staging, TikTok is gaining importance as a platform for creative, fast-paced fashion trends. According to the “Influencer Marketing Report” by Collabstr (2025), TikTok has become the preferred platform for fashion collaborations – a shift that is also reflected economically: the global market for fashion influencer marketing is projected to exceed $46 billion by 2031, with an annual growth rate of over 30%.

    Influencers act not only as trendsetters but also actively influence purchasing decisions. Studies show that they are central information sources for fashion-related questions, especially among those under 35. Through outfit inspirations, discount codes, or unboxing videos, they enhance brand visibility and drive purchasing decisions. Simultaneously, their activities accelerate the cyclical nature of fashion trends: styles emerge, spread globally in a short time, and disappear just as quickly. This hyper-cyclicality increases the innovation pressure on established fashion houses but also offers new labels and niche products opportunities for visibility.

    However, this development is not without controversy. Critics point out that the constant presentation of new products by influencers not only fuels consumption but also contributes to the spread of fast fashion. A legal analysis by the University of Maine (2024) indicates that social media, through its visual dominance, algorithmic amplification, and advertising collaborations, significantly contributes to the normalization of a fast-paced, resource-intensive fashion consumption. The seemingly authentic lifestyle portrayed by many influencers is often closely tied to product placements and commercial partnerships—without this always being clear to the audience. This lack of transparency poses not only ethical challenges but also threatens long-term trust in digital opinion leaders.

    At the same time, this trend stands in contrast to a growing societal awareness of sustainable and fair fashion. While some influencers deliberately focus on slow fashion or upcycling, fast fashion collaborations with large textile chains still dominate broadly. The challenge lies in countering the creative and communicative possibilities that influencers offer with responsible, reflective actions. The influence of these actors is undoubtedly ambivalent: on the one hand, they enable a democratization of style and fashion knowledge; on the other hand, they contribute to the reproduction of consumption norms that are difficult to reconcile with ecological sustainability. It is all the more important to critically reflect on these dynamics and to develop regulatory and educational strategies that promote transparency, diversity, and sustainability in the digital fashion context.

    Timeline of Genderfluid-Trends in Popmusic

    1972: David Bowie – Ziggy Stardust, androgynous glam rock
    1984: Prince – Purple Rain tour, ruffled blouses and high heels
    1994: Kurt Cobain – appearance in a dress on MTV
    2011: Janelle Monáe – androgynous uniform aesthetic
    2019: Billy Porter – tuxedo gown at the Oscars
    2020: Harry Styles – dress on the cover of Vogue
    2021: Lil Nas X – pregnancy photoshoot
    2023: Sam Smith – latex outfit at the BRIT Awards

    References

    Butler, J. (1990). Gender trouble: Feminism and the subversion of identity. Routledge.

    Dyer, R. (1993). The matter of images: Essays on representation. Routledge.

    Edited. (2022). The rise of gender-neutral fashion. https://www.edited.com/resources/reports/the-rise-of-gender-neutral-fashion/

    Entwistle, J. (2000). The fashioned body: Fashion, dress and modern social theory. Polity Press.

    Geczy, A., & Karaminas, V. (2013). Fashion and art. Bloomsbury.

    Gill, R. (2007). Gender and the media. Polity Press.

    Kaiser, S. B. (2012). Fashion and cultural studies. Berg.

    McKinsey & Company. (2023). The state of fashion 2023. https://www.mckinsey.com/industries/retail/our-insights/state-of-fashion

    Pew Research Center. (2022). Generation Z and gender identity. https://www.pewresearch.org/social-trends/2022/08/05/americans-complex-views-on-gender-identity/


    From Subculture to Style: How Queer-Coded Fashion Went Mainstream

    By Victor Schäfer In the not-so-distant past, LGBTQ+ communities developed subtle fashion signals to communicate identity and desires. These codes arose out of necessity, when living openly was dangerous, clothing and accessories became a secret language. For example, the “hanky code” emerged in mid-20th century gay subculture: men tucked colored…

  • In recent years, the relationship between fashion, media, and consumption has undergone profound changes. A central driving force behind this transformation is the culture of social media influencers, who have evolved into powerful players within the fashion ecosystem. Platforms like Instagram, TikTok, and YouTube serve not only as showcases for clothing but also as spaces for performance, meaning-making, and trend generation. The former dominance of traditional fashion media has increasingly been supplanted by influencers who, through their reach, style influence, and relatability, have established a new form of digital authority. Particularly among younger audiences, influencers are perceived as credible figures, whose recommendations are considered more authentic than traditional advertising.

    Their influence is largely based on the specific logic of social media, where personal closeness, visual aesthetics, and constant availability are central success factors. While Instagram captivates with curated visual worlds ideal for brand staging, TikTok is gaining importance as a platform for creative, fast-paced fashion trends. According to the “Influencer Marketing Report” by Collabstr (2025), TikTok has become the preferred platform for fashion collaborations – a shift that is also reflected economically: the global market for fashion influencer marketing is projected to exceed $46 billion by 2031, with an annual growth rate of over 30%.

    Influencers act not only as trendsetters but also actively influence purchasing decisions. Studies show that they are central information sources for fashion-related questions, especially among those under 35. Through outfit inspirations, discount codes, or unboxing videos, they enhance brand visibility and drive purchasing decisions. Simultaneously, their activities accelerate the cyclical nature of fashion trends: styles emerge, spread globally in a short time, and disappear just as quickly. This hyper-cyclicality increases the innovation pressure on established fashion houses but also offers new labels and niche products opportunities for visibility.

    However, this development is not without controversy. Critics point out that the constant presentation of new products by influencers not only fuels consumption but also contributes to the spread of fast fashion. A legal analysis by the University of Maine (2024) indicates that social media, through its visual dominance, algorithmic amplification, and advertising collaborations, significantly contributes to the normalization of a fast-paced, resource-intensive fashion consumption. The seemingly authentic lifestyle portrayed by many influencers is often closely tied to product placements and commercial partnerships—without this always being clear to the audience. This lack of transparency poses not only ethical challenges but also threatens long-term trust in digital opinion leaders.

    At the same time, this trend stands in contrast to a growing societal awareness of sustainable and fair fashion. While some influencers deliberately focus on slow fashion or upcycling, fast fashion collaborations with large textile chains still dominate broadly. The challenge lies in countering the creative and communicative possibilities that influencers offer with responsible, reflective actions. The influence of these actors is undoubtedly ambivalent: on the one hand, they enable a democratization of style and fashion knowledge; on the other hand, they contribute to the reproduction of consumption norms that are difficult to reconcile with ecological sustainability. It is all the more important to critically reflect on these dynamics and to develop regulatory and educational strategies that promote transparency, diversity, and sustainability in the digital fashion context.

    Timeline of Genderfluid-Trends in Popmusic

    1972: David Bowie – Ziggy Stardust, androgynous glam rock
    1984: Prince – Purple Rain tour, ruffled blouses and high heels
    1994: Kurt Cobain – appearance in a dress on MTV
    2011: Janelle Monáe – androgynous uniform aesthetic
    2019: Billy Porter – tuxedo gown at the Oscars
    2020: Harry Styles – dress on the cover of Vogue
    2021: Lil Nas X – pregnancy photoshoot
    2023: Sam Smith – latex outfit at the BRIT Awards

    References

    Butler, J. (1990). Gender trouble: Feminism and the subversion of identity. Routledge.

    Dyer, R. (1993). The matter of images: Essays on representation. Routledge.

    Edited. (2022). The rise of gender-neutral fashion. https://www.edited.com/resources/reports/the-rise-of-gender-neutral-fashion/

    Entwistle, J. (2000). The fashioned body: Fashion, dress and modern social theory. Polity Press.

    Geczy, A., & Karaminas, V. (2013). Fashion and art. Bloomsbury.

    Gill, R. (2007). Gender and the media. Polity Press.

    Kaiser, S. B. (2012). Fashion and cultural studies. Berg.

    McKinsey & Company. (2023). The state of fashion 2023. https://www.mckinsey.com/industries/retail/our-insights/state-of-fashion

    Pew Research Center. (2022). Generation Z and gender identity. https://www.pewresearch.org/social-trends/2022/08/05/americans-complex-views-on-gender-identity/


    Oppression through Fashion: How Fashion can be used as a tool for oppression 

    By Victor Schäfer We usually think of clothing as a personal choice, an expression of who we are, what we believe, or simply what feels right on a given day. But for millions of women around the world, that choice doesn’t really exist. Reading Amnesty International’s statement to…


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